24 Hours in Saint Malo
Earlier this year, I read All The Light We Cannot See (mainly because I wanted to watch the Netflix series and I can't not read the book first) and that book introduced me to the city of Saint Malo. So when we were planning our France trip and trying to figure out how to get to Mont Saint Michel and looking for other areas nearby to explore, Saint Malo became an obvious option.
It turned out to be such a charming little city and I loved it so much.So from Mont Saint Michel, we stopped by Moulin de Moidrey and then headed straight to Saint Malo to drop off the rental car.
After checking into our hotel and dropping off our luggage, we headed straight into town for lunch. We ended up at Cafe de L'Ouest. We each got a sampler platter of oysters and they were amazing. I don't think I've ever had French oysters before, but they all had such meaty cups with soft and sweet briney delicious flavor. I also got the seafood soup, which was fantastic, and then for my main I had the mussels and fries. J got the veal sweetbreads.
After lunch, we walked around the ramparts and explored the city.
We got to see Grand Be and Petit Be from the mainland. We'd missed low tide so we couldn't make it across but it was still beautiful.
We came across this gelato shop and decided to stop for a snack. We got the fruits de la foret (fruits of the forest) and mangue (mango) and it was delicious.
Then we came across this little shop, La Maison du Beurre (the house of butter), and went in to buy some cheese to have as a snack on our train ride the next morning. It was great planning ahead on our part. They also had these big blocks of butter for sale and I so wished I could have bought a bunch to bring home. Brittany butter is on a different level.
For dinner, we went to Saint Placide, a Michelin-starred restaurant just outside the main part of the city.
We were given a brioche toast to start with an olive tapenade. I'm not a big fan of olive, but I still enjoyed it, mainly because the buttery brioche was so lovely.
For the amuse, we were given a fried mackerel, a carrot rollup, and a broiled mackerel. The fried mackerel was the best of the three.
We were given some fresh bread and delicious butter as well as a mackerel rillette.
Then we were finally onto the tasting menu. We started with an oyster, followed with a spider crab soup, a scallop course, an abalone course, sea bass, a celery course, pigeon, and then it was dessert time.
For dessert, we had a fig themed plate and then a chocolate orange tart. The meal ended with a plate of petits fours, including a pate a feuille, cake, and a cone yuzu.
The next morning, we walked to a bakery not too far from our hotel to pick up some treats as well as a loaf of bread for the train.
I got a kouign amann because they originated in Brittany and I wanted to try it whilst in the region. It was super buttery and delicious.
After breakfast, we realized we might be able to walk out onto Grand Be because it was around low tide so we rushed into town and made it out there. It was super fun, especially since the day before, we saw it during high tide.
And then we had to rush back to the hotel to grab our bags and then because there were no Ubers available, we had to power walk to the train (about a 15 minute jaunt) with all of our bags. Once we got on the train, we got to enjoy our snack. The cheese was so good. We got a cremeux de bourgogne de truffe (a soft cheese similar to brie with truffle) and jambon de cours (a delicious cured ham). We also got a tiny little cheese - bouton de culotte - that J wanted to try, which was salty and funky and yum.
xoxo.
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